Thursday, July 30, 2009

Long shlonged Lunatics

My good mates Rusty and Greg Long just rode some massive waves down in Mexico, paddling about trying to pull into 20 foot bombs on a beachie, lunatics! Read an interestin interview with Greg on the Stab mag site! Rad...

Monday, July 27, 2009

JUG props the MORG

Timmy Fish from ASL just sent through a link to an email from surfings number one madman Justin Jughead Allport, giving mad props to the big man Paul Morgan for our recent ASL cover. 

Have a read of the following and then ask yourself why Morgs is still sponsorless, lunacy...

Hey boys,
You might have seen the little story on the ASL site about your cover, but check it out again – we’ve just updated it cos someone emailed us with some big wraps for your baz ...
Say what you like about tow slabs, when a surfer like Jug says something like this, you know Morgs has gone above and beyond.

From: jughead allport
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 2009 12:44:29
Subject: Morgs cover

are you guys at ASL joking!

that cover is sooooo goooood!

That IS THE HEAVIEST WAVE ridden in Oz this year SO FAR hands down!


I have surfed both those waves, the Right and that Left.

* the right, so much water, could probably drown you, pull a few limbs out.
it's a deep water wave, even though it tubes square, you ain't hitting bottom.

* the Left, if you fall, you'll hit bottom, then a 2 wave hold down (ask Courtney Brown) then wash
you up the rocks. this wave is way heavy. Morgs has defied what was thought possible.
He's the maddest fucker out there. his wave is without doubt, in my mind (i've surfed both those waves big) the heaviest wave ridden in Oz this year easy, maybe ever!!!

The day before at the left a crew of 5 or 6 rode a few waves and stopped towing.
It's that heavy. But the right can handle bigger and ya wouldn't think about NOT going
on the right!

Anyhow, i just had to get it off my chest. I haven't read the mag yet, but iIjust DON'T THINK people realise what Morg's has done. He's making history there, pushing the limits waaay beyond. THAT RIGHT has had soo much hype, people don't get it, THE LEFT HAS SUCH MORE SEVERE CONSEQUENCES. and his wave is big, thick and he's deep!

anyhow's , enjoy ya day.


Monday, July 20, 2009

Ferg and the flying headbutt

Just swiftly left the dez after three odd weeks of chill time up there. 

After a morning of ninja skills stickin hectic drops into bombs, the Ferg paddled into the biggest set during the peak of the raddest swell we'd had up there and got served his first nasty injury for the year with a gnarly head on reef collision at full speed underwater. 

I saw him come up with a mad bloody stare, swum straight over, waved Dino Adrians Dad in on his ski, and within 5 minutes Ferg was in the camp at three mile getting sorted out by camp legends George, Dino's Mum, Ming and Marni and a kindly surfing heart surgeon named Tim who puts in long stints at Gnarls every year. 

Thanks to Tims skills with the knife during bush surgery, half an hour after Ferg was initially facing a long swim in followed by a three hour long dirt track drive to medics, the lad was unbelievably all set up with morphine, 16 perfect stitches and orders to stay out the water for a solid week. 

Whats the chances of that eh? Luck of the Irish to be sure...

Sunday, July 19, 2009


Buzzin to have nailed my first cover of Surfing Life after 8 years of submitting regular gear to them, and doubly stoked it's with what I personally feel is probs the best tech big wave shot under pressure of my swimming career so far. 

Big Paul Morgs is the man to take the credit for riding a wave this heavy so critically in the first place, along with Ferg Smith droppin him into the perfect spot amongst the chaos with a flick of the ski. (Someone get Big Morgs a sponsor NOW!)

Scope the mag and the story behind the cover shot from Morgs point of view HERE...

Tuesday, July 14, 2009

New Carve and Threesixty

The latest issues of Carve and Threesixty are out now on general release from Orca publications, featuring the Ferg and Morgs on some bombs from our trip down south, and none other than brother Jack Johns on the 360 cover with a mighty boost from his ozzie stint. Yeah Jig!

Thursday, July 9, 2009


SURFER mag released their big issue last week, and it features a solid article inked by our Californian brother Rusty Long, scoping his take on the scene in Ireland and how it's developed these last few years. It's backed up by a solid spread of photos, mainly of the Ferg and Lowey and is a pretty damn cool piece truth be told. Surfer are one of the biggest selling surf mags in the world so for them to allow us a hefty chunk of heavily competed for pages in their once a year super sized issue, it's pretty rad. It's also the first big Surf mag article I know of that's tells the original tale of the first crazy attempt on Aileens by Brendo and Crashy on the boogs five years ago. Anyways, it's out on the shelves now, go scope it!


We've been up in the Desert for the last week or so, such an incredible place for losin yourself, your marbles, and your tension. Within hours of arrivin, everyday shit dissolves and things starts to flow. Here's a few shots from the stint so far, happy days man, moonrise, moonset, waves, winds, tides, eatin, drinkin, sleepin and vehicle breakdowns are all there is to worry us, buzzin...  

Monday, July 6, 2009


The G8 summit takes place again this week, so if you get 5 seconds, sign THIS petition aiming to push any world leaders still bumbling on the fence in committing to a global warming goal of less than 2 degrees centigrade. Right on...

Friday, July 3, 2009

Danny Boy goes down

Danny boy Skajarowski got seriously injured at one of our local haunts a few weeks ago, hitting the bottom and splittin his knee into 5 pieces. Kids an absolute Leg End in the finest use of the word, and has been pioneering the joint since day one. It's an isolated heavy wave, involves a long hike into nowhere with cliffs all around so he had to be airlifted out, luckily it wasn't one of his many solo sessions. It's the fourth serious injury to go down there in a season, we've had a broken back, severe concussion with stitches, and two smashed knee's, Dan's taking the cake for nastiest by the sounds. With more crew attempting to ride waves out there than ever before, it goes to show that even those with the skills pay the house every now and then, so go carefully brothers, it aint all fun games and photographs. Heal fast Daniel son x

Hope Not Hate

Click HERE to voice your concerns over fascist nutters the BNP gaining seats in parliament...

Wednesday, July 1, 2009


Stoked to have landed my first MOVEMENT cover, with a massive forward air courtesy of Benny Player in Tahiti last month. Funny thing is, out of all the 10-12ft perfect bombs that went down during the trip, this shot came from a rainy wonky 6ft day of the dungbeetle. We even almost went in with the tired over it's, but after a little gut twitch that Ben was going to fly, stayed. As ever, tis always the most unexpected sessions that turn up the spontaneous heat. Anyways, it was the last shot I expected to see front their mag, I thought the big man himself, movement staff photog Tim Jones would have it in the bag with a mega angle of one of the lads on a bomb. Guess they wanted to run summat unexpected instead, which was a nice surprise for me...buzzin