Monday, June 22, 2009

Underwater love


A little underwater view of the ferg from tahits... 

Tahits Cover



Carves out now and our efforts in Tahits scored us a cover, feels good when hard work's rewarded don't it, nice one Lowey for havin a dig, again! buzzin...

Thursday, June 18, 2009

Rants from the road


Well its be a wild ride the last few weeks...

It all began with diving headfirst into a hectic journey last minute to luck into some incredible waves in Tahiti, some photos of which feature in the latest issue of Carve magazine. The first part of our stint there was really cool, not many folk around, hefty slabs, with the place looking and feeling as stunning as ever, and good vibes in the world class lineup. It was everything I remembered it to be and more, and I was buzzing to share it with my girl and my good friends Lowey and Ferg, plus some other good mates from Oz and Hawaii who turned up hunting the same swell. Gotta love the hand of fates involvement in these missions...

Then it all went a bit tits up with the hype of the first mega swell there in a couplea years, and the subsequent arrival of big wig film crews, hookers and photographers everywhere, all trying to get themselves a piece of Chopes and a godlike Laird Hamilton. The mega swell was a non event, but as there were some perfect waves Laird obliged the circus in the channel with a pretty sketchy display out there - surfing all day on his SUP, taking every decent set on a very slow swell along with his buddies, not caring how potentially lethal those boards can be in 1ft waves - let alone amongst 6-8ft waves at Chopes with 30 other people trying to ride them - most of whom are spending their own money camped in the valley hoping to get a once in a lifetime chance at riding a setwave out there.

Now there's all sorts of angles to look at this situation from, and this isn't a direct rant at Laird or his lads. You cant take anything away from what he's achieved for waveriding, thats a given, and it might be that he pioneered tow in surfing with those same buddies at mega Chopes, and thus they have the run of the place in some sense as a result. Nor is it a rant at SUP's. I think they're ace vehicles for cruising out to sea on, exploring coastlines and the like, mega fun. Riding waves on them has to be fun to, no doubt. I just think they're pretty dangerous once let loose around other people in the same lineup, and you'd have to take responsibility for that.

Whoever you are though, and whatever you ride, greed is a pretty ugly thing. What's wrong with sharing, taking turns and even hooting someone else you don't know into a set every now and then? That might be written off as idealism, but it works for me. Putting other people in danger and not even realising the whole lineups not diggin your behaviour, no matter who you are it's a pretty weird scene to get into man, from my perspective at least.

Lowey ended up with a dislocated shoulder from a collision with 'something' underwater when Laird fell off. Is it a coincidence his SUP popped up next to Lowey and his popped shoulder?

There's a whole bunch of other things that went on during that bizarre second half of our stay in Tahits that sent me packin, but as I'm not one to wallow in negativity, I'll leave it behind having spoken my mind about the above and be done with it once and for all...

Thus we bailed for WA. This is well and truly more like it for me. For all the dreamy perfection of Tahits, there's nothing like the real raw chaos of waves in the wild west. We chased another big swell south with our Ozzie brother big Morgs, went the extra mile swimming the spooky depths for a few days, and were rewarded with some crazy looking slabs, one ride of which could be the maddest tech big wave sequence I've shot so far.

I'm buzzing to be here and am thanking the stars places like this still exist without a scene the likes of which we encountered in Tahits. Isolation and adventure are the motivation here, and I'm looking forward to more of 'em out here with any luck... In the meantime here's some random shots from the mission so far...